Hints/Tips
For those members who are finding that restoration project just a tad frustrating, the following advice from a period Army manual may be of some help!
MANUAL OF FIELID ENGINEERING Vol.2 {R.E.) 1936
Chapter 23 (Explosives and Demolition Section 117. Para 10 vii
viii Cars and lorries - the destruction of the engine of a motor car or lorry presents little difficulty.
A few well directed blows in the vital parts ( radiator. magneto. Crankcase etc.) or a few pounds of explosive detonated on the cylinders, will suffice.
The wheels, axles, and girders of the chassis should be broken. the petrol tank pierced and available petrol poured over the body which should be set alight.
Cars can be quickly disabled by the removal of the magneto and carburettor or by cutting the tyres.
Haven't we all had moments when this piece of advice would have been put into practice?
Thanks to Dave Simpson for this contribution
Body Restoration Course (Kent area)
U.K - M.O.T Regulations and lights
_____ FEB 1998 ______
Fuel
Debate on unleaded petrol by Dick Kindell
Long debate on the right or wrong fuel
Fuel Preservative and stabiliser
"Looking after your Trafficators"
Ruby hand brake modification And Front hub Lubrication
How to survive at night in an Austin seven (Aticle on lights/power)
12 volt Electrics For Your Austin 7
Guide to tax for vehicles parked off road
Taking Your Austin Seven abroad
NEW FOR 2000
A light hearted look at the tool kit !!!
USEFUL HINTS
1. If problems are experienced in obtaining the correct size cables when renewing the battery to starter or battery to earth ones, try using the battery cables from the mini car, on these the battery is situated in the boot and therefore use a long heavy duty cable to supply starter and electric's.
Remember the normal 12 volt supply cables used on most modern vehicles are not heavily rated enough for the 6 volt system because the reduced voltage means the cable has to carry a heavier load. The cables used on vehicles with front mounted batteries are not substantial enough for the Austin 7 system.
If a very flexible cable is required try using a section from an industrial welding cable, these can be easily obtained and will carry any load required plus being super flexible.
2. With newly restored cars that have new window felt channels fitted there is sometimes a problem with the glass binding and not moving smoothly in the channel. If this happens try lubricating with French chalk or talcum powder, do not use any oil based products.
3. Ever had the occasion when you need someone to hold the head of a bolt that persists in turning when you are attempting to move it?
If you are working by yourself the problem can be solved by using a mole wrench, this is a self gripping type that can be adjusted and clamped to the bolt head or nut. This will usually 'jam" itself to the surrounding body work and allow the removal to take place.
4. Control cables on Austin 7's that use the "Bowden" type can be replaced by using the inner and outer cable used on bicycle brakes.
5. Treat your car tyres to a bit of 'Spit and Polish" use black shoe polish applied with a brush, work the polish into the rubber and buff up with a soft cloth to obtain that as new look, the polish also acts as a preservative and any mud or dirt will easily wash away.
6. Battery corrosion, that horrible greeniwhitish fungus that grows around the terminals and sometimes spreads into battery box can be prevented by simple maintenance.
First remove any existing corrosion by application of a neutralising solution. Corrosion is acid based, so wash off with a diluted mixture of warm water and common washing soda (obtained from chemist and ironmongers). Then thoroughly clean both battery posts and clamps, always use Vaseline or ordinary grease when refitting together.
The battery box after having the corrosion neutralised can be primed and painted with a rubberised paint obtained from any motor factors.
Please remember to carry out normal safety precautions i.e. use rubber gloves and eye protection when carrying out the neutralising procedure also do not confuse caustic soda with washing soda, caustic is an industrial alkaline and is extremely powerful and will cause serious burns if contact with the skin is allowed. Any spillage's should be wiped up immediately even if this means removing the battery from its holder.
Eddie Loader
Why do they do that ??
The reason engines speed up just before they run out of petrol is because as the level in the fuel chamber lowers the mixture of air/fuel is weakened, giving the same situation as if you open the throttle, so the engine speeds up. So there!
Mac Bonar
<
